Winterize a rain barrel by draining it completely, disconnecting the diverter, restoring the downspout, and storing the barrel upside down before the first hard freeze. The whole job takes about 30 minutes, and it saves you from a cracked barrel in spring. A barrel left full through winter is one of the most common and most avoidable rain barrel failures.
Barrel water is for non-potable use only: ornamental beds, lawns, and outdoor cleaning. Winterizing does not change that, and this article gives no drinking-water advice.
Why Freezing Water Cracks Barrels (Ice Expands About 9%)
Water is unusual: when it freezes, it expands by about 9 percent. A barrel that is full in autumn holds 55 gallons of water, and when that water turns to ice it tries to become about 60 gallons of ice inside a 55-gallon container. Plastic cannot stretch that far, so it cracks, usually along the bottom or at a fitting. A crack in a plastic barrel is very hard to repair, and most cracked barrels end up thrown away. Metal barrels can split at a seam for the same reason. The spigot is also at risk: water trapped inside a brass or plastic spigot freezes, expands, and cracks the fitting or the barrel wall around it.
Even a half-full barrel can crack, because the ice forms a solid sheet across the top and then expands sideways against the walls as it thickens. A barrel with a few inches of water at the bottom is less likely to crack, but it can still freeze solid and split at the base. The only safe barrel in winter is an empty, dry one. That is why winterizing means draining completely, not draining most of the way.
When to Winterize: Before the First Hard Freeze
Winterize before the first hard freeze, which is usually when night temperatures drop below 28°F (-2°C) for several hours. A light frost at 32°F will not crack a barrel, because the water inside takes time to freeze through, but a hard freeze will. Check your local forecast in autumn and pick a dry weekend a week or two before the first hard freeze is expected. In the northern US that is often late October or early November; in the southern US it may be December, or you may not need to winterize at all if hard freezes are rare.
Do not wait for the first freeze to remind you. By the time you notice ice on the barrel, the damage may already be done. Put a reminder in your calendar for the same weekend every year, and winterize on that date even if the weather still feels mild. If a surprise cold snap is forecast, drain the barrel the same day, even if you have not cleaned it yet — draining first and cleaning later is far better than leaving it full.
Step 1: Drain the Barrel Completely
Open the spigot and let the water drain onto a lawn or ornamental bed, away from the foundation. A full barrel takes a while to drain through a small spigot, so be patient, or tip the barrel carefully once it is light enough to move. When the flow stops, tip the barrel on its side to get the last few inches out, because the spigot sits 3 to 4 inches above the bottom and always leaves some water behind. That leftover water is exactly the water that freezes and cracks the base.
Once the barrel is empty, leave the spigot open so any remaining drops can escape, and check that the overflow hose is also empty. If your barrel has a drain plug at the very bottom, open that too. A barrel that looks empty but still holds an inch of water at the bottom is not winterized. Tip it, shake it, and leave it upside down for a few minutes to be sure.
Step 2: Disconnect the Diverter and Restore the Downspout
Disconnect the diverter from the downspout and restore the downspout to its normal path, so winter rain and melting snow flow straight down to the ground or drain, away from the house. Most diverter kits are designed to be disconnected in minutes: unclip the hose, remove the diverter insert, and rejoin the two ends of the downspout with the original section or a short connector. If your diverter is a permanent fitting, close its valve and open the bypass, if it has one, so water cannot enter the barrel line.
Check the downspout after you restore it. It should run straight down with no gap, no kink, and no open end pointing at the foundation. A downspout that ends at the wall in winter will dump snowmelt against the foundation, which is the same problem the overflow is meant to prevent. While you are there, clean the gutters if they are full of leaves, because a clogged gutter in winter causes ice dams on the roof edge.
Step 3: Clean, Dry, and Store the Barrel Upside Down
Scrub the inside of the empty barrel with a stiff brush and clean water, and rinse out the sludge at the bottom. Autumn sludge is full of rotting leaves, and if you leave it in the barrel all winter it will smell terrible in spring and can stain the plastic. Do not use harsh chemicals or bleach; a brush and a rinse are enough. Clean the mesh screens, the lid, and the spigot, and check the washers for wear while the barrel is empty.
Let the barrel dry completely, then store it upside down, either on its stand or in a garage or shed. Storing it upside down stops rain and snow from collecting inside, and it keeps leaves and animals out. If you store it outside, put it somewhere sheltered from wind so it cannot blow over, and weigh it down or tie it if your area gets strong winter winds. A dry, upside-down barrel survives winter with no damage at all.
Spring Restart: Reconnecting and First-Flush Check
In spring, after the last hard freeze, reconnect the system in reverse. Set the barrel back on its stand, check the stand is still level, and refit the spigot washers if they look worn. Reconnect the diverter and the inlet hose, fit clean mesh screens over every opening, and close the spigot. Check the overflow hose for cracks or blockages over winter, and replace it if it is stiff or split.
Let the first rain fill the barrel, then check every joint for leaks for the first 15 minutes, just as you did on the first install. Clean the first-flush diverter before the first storm, because it will be full of winter grit, and check that its drain works. The first fill of spring is often the dirtiest water of the year, so let the first flush do its job and do not use the first barrel of water on your most delicate plants. After that, the system is ready for the season.
FAQ
When should I winterize my rain barrel?
Before the first hard freeze, when night temperatures drop below 28°F for several hours. In the northern US that is often late October or early November. Do not wait for ice to appear on the barrel.
Can I leave my rain barrel full in winter?
No. Water expands about 9 percent when it freezes, and a full barrel will crack. Even a half-full barrel can crack. Drain it completely and store it upside down.
How do I drain a rain barrel for winter?
Open the spigot and drain onto a lawn or bed away from the house, then tip the barrel to get the last few inches out, because the spigot sits above the bottom. Leave the spigot open.
What do I do with the downspout in winter?
Disconnect the diverter and restore the downspout so winter rain and snowmelt flow straight down, away from the foundation. Clean the gutters at the same time.
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